Things to Do in Chad

About Chad

The Harmattan wind hits your face with grit the moment you step off the plane in N'Djamena, carrying the smell of woodsmoke from the charcoal fires that line Boulevard de la République. This is a city where 4x4s roar past the Grand Mosque's minarets at sunset, and the Central Market's goat-meat smoke drifts over stalls selling Chinese flip-flops and hand-woven cotton from the Sahel. In the morning, the Avenue Charles de Gaulle fills with men in flowing boubous drinking sweet tea for 200 CFA (0.30) from glass tumblers, while women balance baskets of mangoes on their heads, calling prices in French, Arabic, and Sara. The heat here isn't polite — it shimmers off tin roofs at 42°C (108°F) in April, when even the lizards seek shade. But come November, when the rains stop and the dust settles, Zakouma National Park reveals 500 elephants drinking at Salamat River, their silhouettes sharp against grasslands that stretch to Sudan. You'll pay 15,000 CFA (25) for a plate of grilled capitaine fish at Le Pelican by the Chari River, watching fishermen haul nets heavy with Nile perch. The power cuts are real — three hours nightly — and malaria pills are non-negotiable. Yet there's something about the way the Milky Way spills across the Sahara sky, or how a village chief in Koumra will invite you to share millet beer under a baobab tree, that makes the dust in your lungs feel like a fair exchange.

Travel Tips

Transportation: N'Djamena's taxis are beat-up yellow Peugeots that fit six people and won't leave until full — negotiate 1,000 CFA ($1.70) for cross-town trips before you get in. Download Chad Taxi app (works offline) to book private rides for 3,500 CFA ($6) from the airport to downtown hotels. Shared minivans to Moundou take 8 hours on what's optimistically called a road — expect to pay 8,000 CFA ($14) and bring water. For Zakouma, 4WD rental runs 65,000 CFA ($110) per day from agencies near Place de la Nation, but check the spare tire yourself.

Money: CFA francs only — no ATMs outside N'Djamena accept foreign cards, so stock up at Société Générale on Avenue Mobutu. The black market at Grand Marché offers 15% better rates than banks, but count your money twice and don't flash large bills. Credit cards work at exactly three hotels and zero restaurants. Bring USD bills from 2013 or newer — anything older gets rejected. Budget 15,000 CFA ($25) daily for basic meals and transport; double for Zakouma park fees.

Cultural Respect: Greet elders first with 'Bonjour, ça va?' before any interaction — skipping this is considered deeply rude. In Muslim areas, cover shoulders and knees; women should carry a scarf for mosque visits. When offered millet beer in villages, take at least three sips — refusal offends. Photography requires permission — ask with 'Je peux prendre une photo?' and expect to pay 500 CFA ($0.85) per shot. At markets, touching merchandise signals serious interest; don't handle goods unless buying.

Food Safety: Stick to grilled meats and cooked vegetables — salads washed in tap water will ruin your trip. The capitaine fish at riverside restaurants is safest grilled fresh; avoid anything pre-cooked sitting out. Street meat on Rue de Kabalaye costs 500 CFA ($0.85) per skewer — watch it cook over charcoal, not gas flames. Drink only sealed bottled water (750 CFA/$1.25 per liter) — even locals avoid tap water. Bring Ciprofloxacin from home; pharmacy antibiotics are often expired.

When to Visit

November through February is the sweet spot — temperatures drop to 28°C (82°F) during the day, 15°C (59°F) at night, with zero rainfall and clear skies perfect for Zakouma's elephant safaris. Hotel prices jump 60% during this peak, but the 35,000 CFA ($59) park entrance fee stays constant. March and April bring brutal heat — 42°C (108°F) daily — when even locals flee to Moundou's cooler hills and N'Djamena's hotel occupancy drops to 30%, cutting rates by half. May to October is rainy season; roads wash out, malaria risk triples, and the 4WD track to Zakouma becomes impassable. The rains do transform the Sahel into green grasslands, but you'll need malaria prophylaxis (875 CFA/$1.50 per pill locally). Ramadan shifts annually but closes most daytime restaurants in Muslim areas — budget travelers might actually prefer this, as evening iftar meals (2,000 CFA/$3.40) are generous and social. Christmas brings expat crowds and hotel prices peak at 45,000 CFA ($76) for basic rooms. For photographers, late October offers the best light — golden hour stretches to two hours with dust particles creating dramatic sunsets. Fly in November when Air France drops Paris-N'Djamena flights to 450,000 CFA ($760) roundtrip, 40% cheaper than July's peak rates. If you're coming for the Gerewol festival in the Sahel (dates vary by lunar calendar), book guides six months ahead — the Wodaabe nomads' male beauty pageant happens in remote villages accessible only by camel or 4WD, and local fixers charge 100,000 CFA ($170) per person for the three-day journey.